1.
Umbilical cord - As much as possible when you're at home,
keep the dog on leash and with you. Put a 6-foot leash on the
dog, and attach the other end of the leash to a sturdy belt around
your waist. Ignore the dog and go about your business. Having
to constantly watch what you do and where you go will bond the
dog to you and make you important in his eyes.
2. Eye contact x 2 - twice a day, sit down with
the dog between your knees, and use a known cue such as Watch
Me, or make funny noises, or tap the dog's nose and then your
own to get ANY eye contact, reward that eye contact with a click
and reward, and quit.
3.
Obedience x 2 - Twice a day, have a quick working session
using whatever the dog knows how to do (Down, Sit, Come, etc),
repeat as needed. Train for a couple of minutes each session.
Do NOT touch the dog to praise him.
4. Feed x 2 - When food is left down for the
dog to eat, the dog owns the food. Instead, feed the dog twice
a day in a confined area such as a crate or the bathroom. If he
doesn't know how to immediately clean his dish of everything you
offer him, teach him to eat.
5. Possession is 9/10 of the Law - At least once
a day, handle the dog. Repeat the words These are my ears! This
is my paw! This is my muzzle! This is my tail! as you handle him.
If he fusses, go slower. It's important that the dog has a positive
experience - that he comes to see that you will be handling him
and it's of no concern to him. When he's completely relaxed and
accepts your handling, say OK and release him. If your dog won't
allow you to handle him like this without getting angry or getting
away, DO NOT do this exercise. Do the rest of the exercises and
use the clicker to teach the dog to allow this handling later.
6. Long Down-Stay - Do one 30-minute Down-Stay
every day. You can watch TV but the dog must be in plain sight
and you must be aware of him. If he can't stay down on his own,
confine him instead. Keep him in sight and, if he's fussing, reward
him with a click and a treat when he's NOT fussing.
7. Sing a Song - make up a silly song using the
dog's name. It doesn't have to rhyme, only make you smile and
get the dog's tail wagging. Sing it to him (he won't criticize,
I promise).
8. I'm-The-Mommy Down – At least once a day, just
because you felt like it, tell him to down. When he does, use
your voice only to tell him he did a good job, say Okay, and walk
away. If he doesn't know the cue "down", use the clicker
to teach it to him.
9. Leadership Is In The Eye Of The Beholder -
Consider life from the dog's point of view. He sleeps where he
wants, he eats when he wants, he leads you around. Any wonder
he gets the impression that he's in charge? If he goes through
a door or into stairs or a hallway ahead of you, simply turn and
walk back in the other direction. Try to position him or yourself
so you're leading and he's following. If he's lying down, don't
walk around him. Put your feet on the floor and shuffle right
through him (note you don't kick the dog, just push him gently
out of the way) - make him think about where you are and what
you're doing. When he orders you to let him out, take charge of
going outside. Build a ritual around the door. Focus his attention
on you: "Do you want to go out? Sit! " When he sits,
go to the door. "Want to go out? Sit. Down. Sit. Stay."
Then open the door: "Okay, go outside!" You change the
situation so you're the leader. Keep the dog on the floor. Not
on the couch, not on the chair, not halfway up the stairs surveying
his domain, not in your lap, not on the car seat. On the floor.
Don't leave the dog loose in the house or yard when you're not
home. Free run of the house when the Boss isn't home allows the
dog to feel powerful and responsible for the house and what happens
in it. Don't allow the dog to sleep on your bed, or on a child's
bed. Dogs recognize the bed as a throne for the Boss. If he sleeps
away from you, though, he may think that you own the bedroom,
but he owns the rest of the house. He should sleep in your bedroom,
but if that's impossible (allergies, for instance), confine him
to his crate.
10. Work Off Energy - Roadwork adult dogs 4 days
a week. Start small, but work up to a mile for small dogs, 2 miles
for medium dogs, and 3 miles for large dogs. Many problems will
disappear with no more effort than road-working. You can jog with
the dog, or ride a bike, or longe him with a Flexi, or use an
ATV, or lend him to a jogger who's afraid of being mugged. Be
sure that puppies have ample opportunity to play. The "Come
Game" (calling the puppy back and forth between two people
and rewarding him for each come) is excellent for giving puppies
exercise AND for teaching them to come. Speak to your vet about
the difference between "ample" exercise and "too
much" or "not enough" exercise for puppies.
11. Busy Pawss Are Happy Paws - Consider the
things your dog likes - getting petted? Food? Toys? Chasing a
squirrel up a tree? Whatever it is, remember that YOU are the
one who can supply him with it. If he loves to chase a ball, he
might jump at you, bark, try to grab it out of your hand - if
you throw it while he is behaving like this, he'll continue to
behave like this because it got him what he wanted. If you wait
until he's NOT jumping on you, or until he's momentarily silent,
or until he sits (even if it takes ten minutes), and THEN throw
the ball, you'll be showing him that GOOD behaviour, not bad behaviour,
gets the ball.
12. Eliminate Hormones - Have problem dogs neutered.
Some problems will solve themselves with no more effort than this.
Not only will the dog be healthier and easier to live with, but
your life will be made simpler.
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